Titicaca: A Portal to the Past
There’s no denying that Machu Picchu should be on everyone’s bucket list, but it would be a shame to overlook some of Peru’s off the beaten path destinations. From the wonders of the Amazon, to the world class surf breaks of Paracas, through Cusco and on to Lake Titicaca, Peru is a dazzlingly diverse destination.
Beyond Cusco, Lake Titicaca is a must. At more than 12,000 feet above sea level, it is considered the highest navigable lake in the world. Surrounded by snowcapped mountains and prehistoric volcanos, the lake marks a fluid…and somewhat contested…border between Peru and Bolivia. It is a magical place where, according to Incan legend, the Sun God’s children rose from the waters to found the civilization that defined a continent.
On the shore of this mystical lake, Titilaka is an intimate, 18-room lodge. A member of Relais & Chateaux, the lodge sits atop a private peninsula jutting into the water. Recognized among the 20 Best Hotels in the World by Conde Nast Traveler, the 16 room lodge feels like a cozy boathouse on the edge of the world. An amazing staff, warm environment, and large, picture frame windows overlooking the lake invite guests to kick off their shoes and relax.
At night, with bedroom windows open, sounds of the waves lull guests to sleep. In the morning, the soft coo of the local birdlife announces a stunning sunrise over crisp blue water.
Guests staying at Titilaka are able to enjoy a wide range of excursions and activities…or do nothing at all. From birdwatching to rafting to trekking the Colla Route—part of the original network of Incan roadways—even the most active guests are spoiled for choice. For those eager to venture across the border, day trips into Bolivia reveal spectacular pre-Inca archeological sites.
One highlight that shouldn’t be missed is the Islands of Lake Titicaca excursion. The trip departs in the morning after a leisurely breakfast. Climb aboard a luxuriously equipped boat for a journey out on the lake. While on board, your guide will share the history of the lake and the people that call Titicaca home. Before you know it, the boat is pulling up to a dock on a rocky, Mediterranean-looking beach. You are so far from home that it wouldn’t be far off to feel like you’re living a chapter out of The Odyssey. Welcome to Taquile.
The people of Taquile are known for exceptional skill in weaving and textiles. From the time they can toddle, children are taught to weave and tell stories through colorful creations that adorn every member of the family and that are full of meaning. UNESCO recently included the practice and culture on its shortlist of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
Visitors to the island have the opportunity to learn about the unique heritage and culture of the island and meet with local leaders. Afterwards, an outdoor table is set and locally-inspired cuisine served with views of the lake and Bolivia’s Cordillera Real at a restaurant built and managed by a local family in partnership with the lodge.
Titicaca may not yet be a household name, but getting there is a worth the trip…and a journey in itself. The best way to get to Titicaca is by train. After a journey to Machu Picchu, travelers board the Belmond Andean Explorer in Cusco and experience the dramatic altiplano by rail. The train traverses the region, revealing some of Peru’s most remote and undiscovered corners, before stopping in Puno after one night. From there, a short, 1 hour drive before guests arrive at Titilaka. For those short on time, flights run from Lima and Cusco to Juliaca—roughly two scenic hours from the lodge—daily.
For more information, please contact Leslie@LeslieSwansonTravel.com.
